Muscat to Salalah, July 1st

Welcome to Salalah, primary city in the Dhofar region of Southern Oman, known as the “land of Frankincense.” The south is distinctly different from other parts of Oman, primarily because of the monsoon which arrives in July and turns the coastal area and surrounding mountain landscape green (and, there are NO Starbucks in Salalah!). Although we arrive before the monsoon, evidence that it will appear soon may be seen in the churning sea that creates huge waves and a dangerous undertow. The Indian Ocean is “turning over” as cold water swells up from the African coast to produce the mists that sweep past Southern Oman (the only part of the Arabian Peninsular touched by the monsoon) and bring welcome rain to South Asia. The mist transforms the dry landscape into a rich green and creates an ideal climate for the Frankincense trees that thrive beyond the mountains oozing the resin that is harvested twice a year. Egypt once used enormous quantities of frankincense for embalming the pharaohs and 3,000 tons were transported to 1st century CE Rome for incense. Today the resin is sold to the perfume industry.

We check into our hotel (right on the beach) and, as always, hit the ground running to absorb as much as possible during our three-day stay. First stop, Al Balid Archaeological Park where Juris Zarins and Lynne Newton, archaeologists with a passion for their work, give us an incredible introduction to the area. After Juris speaks at length on the geography and history of the region, its relationship to the trade routes both maritime and inland up the Hydramant, we pile into carts for a Park tour. Zarins has worked the site for over a decade. Lynne and he currently serve as site administrators and direct the co-located Frankincense Museum.

Al Balid is ancient Salalah, a natural port in use from the Bronze and Iron Age to the 20th century. The 14th century Muslim traveler, Ibn Battuta, writes of visiting shrines here, and Zeng He, the Chinese Yongle Emperor’s Admiral, called at Zafar with the great “treasure fleet.” After exploring the excavations we tour the Museum with Juris and Lynne. They patiently answer our questions with Juris providing anecdotes sure to enliven a world history class. The maritime section includes beautiful crafted models of regional vessels made by Tom Vosner.

In the evening we visit the Haffa Souk which features frankincense and perfume oils. The air is heavy with incense burners and each shop keeper assures us he has the best price. There are several types of frankincense, each for a different purpose, among them medicinal or simply because of the soothing fragrance when burned. We have fun bargaining before making choices.