Saturday, July 25, 2009

Jordanian life in Amman – Impressions


After three weeks in Jordan my impressions are many. People are hospitable, helpful, and children are quick to try their English with a bright “welcome to Jordan.” Lifestyles and incomes are diverse. Present are the ubiquitous Starbucks, Pizza Hut, KFC, and McDonalds. One sees young women, dressed in Abaya and head-scarves, walking along the fashionable streets and sitting in cafes smoking the Argeileh (water pipe).

The Jordanian elite and members of middle class living in villas in Abdoun or urban apartments represent a very small minority of the population. Our group met with Ragda Bostros community organizers and children in the Jabal Al Qalaa to learn about their program. The low-income pre-WW II neighborhood is on a slope down from the Citadel. It is endangered by rising real estate prices and the expansion of tourism. There is talk of building a cable car to the Citadel with companion high end shops which will mean neighborhood clearance. The group was captivated by the children and the effort to save the community (see photos).

On a festive note, July is wedding month. Hotels in Amman all fully booked for lavish receptions. Our hotel has a nightly wedding gala. There is always stylish car (Lexus, Mercedes or BMW convertible) festooned with flowers for the bride and groom who dress in western attire. Security is very much in evidence. A band greets the couple, as friends and relatives in a variety of evening attire (western, traditional Arab or Bedouin dress) clap and dance, then proceed into the reception area for a major feast. Weddings cost around 10,000 JD ($15,000) and often more. The groom’s family pays most of the expenses and wedding contracts are elaborately crafted by the tribal families involved. Bedouin weddings are seven night affairs.

Shopping - there are several Mega-Malls in Amman and another under construction in the seventh circle area near AMIDEAST (see photo of site). Malls are filled with young people and have traditional anchor stores such as Carrefour, but they also have electronic security gates at entrances. I took a few photos before a security guard appeared and told me “no photos allowed.” Here you see an SUV demo.

I attended a concert at the Performing Arts Center (photo) with a colleague. Please note the name Iyad Sughayer, a 16 year old Jordanian pianist you will hear more of in the future. He, together with a very talented 17 year old violinist, gave a recital demonstrating rare skill, poise, and stage presence for such youth. Several other members of the group enjoyed watching films in the garden of Jordan’s new Royal Film Commission (photo). The Commission works to promote film (there are few movie theaters in the country outside of Amman) and attract film productions to Jordan (Transformers 2 was recently on location in Petra).

We also visit the royal car museum which houses the collection of the Hashemite Royal Family. The new museum is very popular with locals and tourists. Of special interest are not only the vast array of motorcycles – Harley-Davidson & BMW – and cars (both for State Occasions and the sports cars of which King Hussein was so fond), but the companion signage and photos explaining their context (photo). There is also a 15 min. film of King Abdullah taking a journalist around Jordan (Petra, hiking with Special Forces), talking about his life as King and the country he rules.

Preservation of the traditional Islamic arts and crafts presents a challenge. Our visit to Salt and the College of Traditional Islamic Arts and Architecture founded in 199 demonstrates the dedication and skill of those determined to do so. Among the colleges most significant initiative is the reconstruction of the Minbar, the pulpit of the Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem (photos).

















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