We are learning about Oman at an incredible pace, five memorable days so far.
Water is a precious commodity in Oman. The Falaj irrigation systems that supply water to villages in the interior of Oman have existed for 2 to 3 thousand years and are based on intricate village social networks and relationships. At one time there were over 6,000 such systems but many have collapsed and today there are 3,600. Our Introduction to the Falaj began with a overview of the architecture, hydrology, and the astronomical approach to dividing water shares among the user community, by Hilal Al Siyabi (Ohio State undergraduate - Carnegie Mellon graduate degree). Many of the systems have been in use since the 17th century. We continued to on-site explorations through the Hajar Mountains to the Al Dikhiliya Region. Hilal took us to his village to show us the sun dial system for allocating water and measuring the time, traditional measures in place before clocks. Since the system operates for 24 hours with a 5 to 10 day access period cycle, night allocations are measured by stars. Payment is annual. None of the systems use pumps and each requires a sense of engineering in use since antiquity. We then hiked up the Falaj (approximately 2 km) to the source. As the photos show this was a fascinating excursion. Returning to the village we met in a veranda near Hilal’s father’s home to take coffee and a light meal of chick-peas, rice, fruit, and in-season local dates, and to enjoy the warm hospitality of family members.
We then continued our journey to Hilal’s father-in-law’s hydroponic cucumber farm to learn something about agriculture. Trained as an architect, he learned hydroponic farming by trial and error and reading books ordered on Amazon. The operation now produces 600 kilos per 90 day cycle in 45 greenhouses for the Omani market. The family invited us to lunch – grilled lamb, rice with nuts, spices, raisins, and honey cake – what an adventure. We needed the final walk along the Falaj, through the date palms to work-off the generous amounts of food consumed!
Finally, Friday is a special Muslim day of prayer and mosque attendance. For us it was fine evening to visit the Muttrah Souk, since it was crowded this day with family shoppers as well as the usual the scent of spices and frankincense and things to appeal to both locals and tourists. Almost all the women we saw were wearing the abaya with head scarves that do not cover their faces. All Omani men (not expatriates or foreign workers) wear white or light colored dishashas with either the Kumah, a round hat with embroidery (in the past made by sisters and daughters for male family members, or the distinctive Omani turban the Misar (also called Amara). Our group bought everything from saffron, to jewelry, clothing, and even an extra suitcase to hold all the gifts and other acquired items. A swing through the local mall for coffee at Caribou and our day is done!
With such extreme heat I wonder why the Omanis don't cover the aqueduct system to cut algae formation and more importantly reduce system loss to evaporation.
ReplyDelete