Muscat ~ June 24

Up early to enjoy another walk on the beach. The receding tide reveals many tiny colorful shells (no more Cowries). Our Arabic Lessons continue promptly at 8 AM. While I am definitely not a star pupil, I improve with each lesson. The rest of the morning was dedicated to learning about the oil industry in Oman with a visit to Petroleum Development Oman (PDO – http://www.pdo.co.om ), an overview lecture, oil museum visit, and lunch. Since I grew up in Beaumont, the Texas city where “oil became an industry,” I thoroughly enjoyed the presentations.

Oil and natural gas (LNG) are essential to the Sultanate, which is the only GCC state not an OPEC member. Many oil companies drilled exploratory wells in Oman in the 1950s but the first well producing commercial quality crude did not come in until 1962. Today the Royal Dutch Shell controls 34% interest in PDO, the Omani government 60% which also owns all the gas. The PDO concession represents more than 2/3 rds of the country having 2,600 km of pipeline. 800 km asphalt roads, and over 5,000 km of graded roads. Because much of Omani crude oil is heavy, PDO employs technology advances to enhance the methods for finding and developing new oil – “intelligent wells” - and gas fields. 80% of Omani oil exports go to South and East Asia. PDO, we are told, is committed as well to training and education and the Omanization process. While the managing director is British, two-thirds of the top management is Omani and there are 4,187 Omani and 1,000 expatriates employed. PDO seeks to provide sustainable incomes for Omani people and engages in “gifts to the nation,” among them a planetarium. What does this sustainable development and the oil industry mean for Omani people?

As our afternoon lecture on Tribes and Politics in Oman presented by Ahmed Al Mukhaini (law professor at the SASLO Legal Training Center), Oman today may be best viewed through the lens of Pre and Post oil era history, the adaptation to the modern state and an oil producing economy. Oil transformed Oman and contributed to what is frequently termed a “Renaissance” within the Sultanate. Since many men and women work in the capital area and return to their villages on the weekend, tribal and family identity remains embedded in Omani political and social culture. After oil, Omani tribes (100s of tribes, 15 main) and their relationship to the state was re-invented and new traditions developed. As the Royal family supplies legitimacy for the Sultan, after oil, the corporate state defined new connections with tribal leaders by granting positions, providing stipends, inviting participation in councils, and meetings with the Sultan during his annual tour. Tribal relationships are political and complex. Our brief introduction to the topic clearly invites more study.

Our evening, after a full day’s activities, is free. Tomorrow we have our first excursion into the interior to Nizwa Fort and time to roam the Nizwa Souk. Stay tuned!