Farewell Salalah ~ July 3

We had a grand last day in Salalah. We took three 4 wheel drive Land Cruisers up the coast to see the blowholes then into the Jabal Mountains for a picnic hosted by Said bin Saad Al Shahry. More text about our day later – here are a few photos.

We leave tomorrow morning to return to Muscat and fly on to Amman, Jordan. How very difficult it will be to say goodbye after two weeks in this fascinating country.

Salalah ~ July 2

Camels, camels, camels, we see lots of camels today. At first sighting we all want to stop, pile off the bus, and have a photo moment. By the end of the day however, there is only a murmur – oh, another camel. While the camels are fun to watch, for me the birds are incredible. After Muscat, where I had seen so few, the lagoon around the Khor Rori excavation is filled with flamingoes, cranes, herons, ducks, and other water birds I need to identify. I am glad to have high power binoculars as the excavation site commands a hill far above the lagoon. Like old Salafah, Khor Rori is strategically located on another one of the three natural harbors on the Omani coast and was a major thoroughfare inland. Juris and Lynne explain that the trading center transhipped goods from China and South Asia for passage on caravan routes into the interior and sent frankincense and prized Arabian horses, among other things, to India.

We then drive up Wadi Darbat to the great natural travertine Dam which has cascading waterfalls during the monsoon and wonderfully eroded cliffs during the dry season. Many Jabali people farm the area keeping cattle and camels. The camels, we are told, have changed with the habitat. Because of over-grazing they forage less, are now fed expensive grass, and seldom travel long distances. Since the Park has both water and someone to feed them there are camels in abundance.

Before returning from our excursion to the hotel we stop at one of the many roadside Coconut kiosks to enjoy some coconut juice. We are each provided with a split fresh coconut and straw, then the shell is split so we can have a bit of the white meat – refreshing.

In the late afternoon we join a car/van caravan of others leaving the city. In large fields beyond the urban area tents are set up on carefully marked lots where families keep house until August to escape the coastal heat and humidity. As we enter the mountains all along the verges of the highway and surrounding hillsides families and groups of young men set up chairs, tables, or just spread a blanket to picnic and enjoy the cool rising mist of the Khareef. Our destination is the tomb of the Prophet Job, sacred to Jewish, Christian, and Muslim people of “the book.” The tomb is adjacent to a mosque and garden filled with colorful bougainvillea, hibiscus and other flowering plants and trees where colorful weaver birds suspend their nests.

Muscat to Salalah, July 1st

Welcome to Salalah, primary city in the Dhofar region of Southern Oman, known as the “land of Frankincense.” The south is distinctly different from other parts of Oman, primarily because of the monsoon which arrives in July and turns the coastal area and surrounding mountain landscape green (and, there are NO Starbucks in Salalah!). Although we arrive before the monsoon, evidence that it will appear soon may be seen in the churning sea that creates huge waves and a dangerous undertow. The Indian Ocean is “turning over” as cold water swells up from the African coast to produce the mists that sweep past Southern Oman (the only part of the Arabian Peninsular touched by the monsoon) and bring welcome rain to South Asia. The mist transforms the dry landscape into a rich green and creates an ideal climate for the Frankincense trees that thrive beyond the mountains oozing the resin that is harvested twice a year. Egypt once used enormous quantities of frankincense for embalming the pharaohs and 3,000 tons were transported to 1st century CE Rome for incense. Today the resin is sold to the perfume industry.

We check into our hotel (right on the beach) and, as always, hit the ground running to absorb as much as possible during our three-day stay. First stop, Al Balid Archaeological Park where Juris Zarins and Lynne Newton, archaeologists with a passion for their work, give us an incredible introduction to the area. After Juris speaks at length on the geography and history of the region, its relationship to the trade routes both maritime and inland up the Hydramant, we pile into carts for a Park tour. Zarins has worked the site for over a decade. Lynne and he currently serve as site administrators and direct the co-located Frankincense Museum.

Al Balid is ancient Salalah, a natural port in use from the Bronze and Iron Age to the 20th century. The 14th century Muslim traveler, Ibn Battuta, writes of visiting shrines here, and Zeng He, the Chinese Yongle Emperor’s Admiral, called at Zafar with the great “treasure fleet.” After exploring the excavations we tour the Museum with Juris and Lynne. They patiently answer our questions with Juris providing anecdotes sure to enliven a world history class. The maritime section includes beautiful crafted models of regional vessels made by Tom Vosner.

In the evening we visit the Haffa Souk which features frankincense and perfume oils. The air is heavy with incense burners and each shop keeper assures us he has the best price. There are several types of frankincense, each for a different purpose, among them medicinal or simply because of the soothing fragrance when burned. We have fun bargaining before making choices.

Muscat ~ June 29 & 30

The beach continues to lure a few of us. Tiny sand crabs scurry into their holes leaving interesting patterns and there is often a football game in progress.

Our final two days in Muscat are dedicated to learning about the Omani legal system and the development of the Consultative Council the Majlis Al Shoura. We visited the Supreme Court, and met with the Chief Justice - President, Isaq Al Busidi for an explanation of the Omani court system, a Q & A, and group photo. Al Busidi presented each of us with an emblem of the Sultanate and books on the Court System. Lunch and a lecture at the SASLO Legal Training Center, “The Developing Legal System of Oman,” by Said bin Saad Al Shahry, further informed us. The system is different from the other countries in the region. When established in 1970 there were no lawyers or judges in the region and the initial need was met by bringing qualified judges and sending Omanis to study law abroad, mainly the UK. Al Shahry stressed the need for public participation in the process, the necessity for a gradual transformation in order to prepare Omanis society to accept change based equally on tradition and modernity, “…to create a modern country which has a balance between its religion and culture and modernity.” His remarks reflect his commitment to the concept of partnership between people and government and his experience as a former member of the Majlis Al Shoura model a vision for Oman. The recently founded Center trains lawyers and legal assistants and reflects the development of the Omanization process.

Two hours of Arabic and a presentation, “The Forts & Castles of Oman” by Marcia Dorr followed by two hours of Arabic maintained our hectic pace. The fort preservation and restoration program, designed to preserve the historical legacy of the nation, is extensive. It is also intended to attract tourists. Marcia, who works with the heritage section of the Ministry of Culture and Heritage, authored a marvelously illustrated two volume work, The Craft Heritage of Oman. During the Q & A, she helped familiarize us with Oman’s rich material culture. We asked Marcia’s Omani assistant, when did women adopt the black abayua instead of wearing the traditional colorful regional women’s dress? She explained the style spread from Iran to the Gulf States and Oman after 1986, and noted the abayua is more comfortable for office wear. Wearing the abayua she considers as much a fashion statement as one of religion identity. A “free” evening allowed us time to return Muttrah Souk and enjoy the sounds of shop-owners. hawking their wares, smell the scents of Frankincense burners, and experience the fun of bargaining for the best price.

Tuesday was dedicated to learning about the Shoura (Consultative) Process in the Sultanate. We arrived at the Majlis chamber at 10 for an overview provided by Ahmad Ali M. Al Mukhaini, who served on the Majlis staff and has, from the time of our arrival, been a major group resource. Next we met with H.E. the Secretary General with his translator in a formal session followed by Q & A (our group asks very good questions). His Excellency presented each of us with an emblem of the Sultanate and books on the Majlis System. A reception with members of the Majlis staff and Public Affairs Officer followed. Since the primary language in higher education in Oman is English, the language also taught in secondary schools, many Omani’s - especially those educated in the UK and US - speak excellent English. I learn more from this series of interesting conversations and was better prepared to appreciate today’s lunch which included current and former Majilis members as AMIDEAST/Fulbright guests. I joined colleagues at the table with Dr. Fuaad Sajwani Al Lawati, Chairman Economic Committee of the Shoura Council. We conversed on a wide range of topics, including what it was like for an Omani to travel in the US soon after 911 (difficult), his vision for higher education in the Sultanate, along with tourism, and our family life. We shared tips for places to visit when he travels with his family to the US for a vacation next year.

That evening our Group Leader, Dr. Calvin Allen delivered a well received lecture “Three Centuries of Indian Contributions to Omani Economic & Social Development,” at the special invitation of the Indian ambassador. The presentation was followed by a delicious Indian meal served on the Indian Embassy lawn.

Tomorrow we are off to Salalah.

Muscat to Sohar ~ June 28

Our 6 AM beach excursion group is up to three who enjoy people watching and shelling. Local morning tidal patterns are changing, there are 20 – 30 yards of exposed beach instead of the approximately 100 yards of walked in the last few days.

Today we need the fresh air before we travel two and a half hours up the coast to Sohar, to visit the new port and the university, and return to Muscat in time for a reception at the residence of the American Embassy Deputy Chief of Mission. The University of Sohar is a private institution established in 1979 in connection with Queensland University, Brisbane, Australia. They were pleased to explain their ambitious expansion program (40 % of new construction cost to be from the government), showed us around the campus, and hosted a pizza and KFC lunch where we could talk with students (exams ended recently) and faculty. Sofar is interested in student exchanges with American colleges and universities.

The pace of change in Oman is clearly embedded in the Sultanate’s commitment to education, much of it funded by rapid and diverse industrial development. The Port of Sohar is an indication of this expansion process. Opened less that five years ago near the strategic site of the ancient trading city, Port Sohar is an industrial park with a refinery, petro-chemical, bitumen, aluminum, and desalination plants, each having dedicated power sources. Currently with an 18 to 20 draw the port will soon have a 23 draw capacity, rail connections to Muscat, a “free zone”, and open a new area to increase the size to 4,500 hectares.

Photographs are not allowed within the port area - here is a refinery photo taken from the perimeter road.

Muscat ~ June 27

Our morning Arabic class resumes at 8 AM – we have another 4 hours to complete before we leave Oman. The rhythms and sounds of the language are musical and distinct. Hopefully, I will improve before classes continue in Jordan next week.

Today’s activities are another example of the seminar’s promise to “provide participants with the broadest possible exposure to contemporary society.” We had a fascinating presentation on Oman’s Maritime History by Marine Archeologist, Dr. Tom Vosner. The region of Oman – an important source of copper in the Bronze Age - was vital to the development of the early hand sewn plank and beam boat construction that made the Indian Ocean trade routes stretching some 6000 miles to South and East Asia possible. His current project, to be a National Geographic feature, is construction of the Jewel of Muscat (see: http://www.jewelofmuscat.tv/en/node/420 ) a replica of the 9th century silk route trading vessel wrecked off the coast of Java and recovered in 1998. When complete, the ship will follow the ancient Maritime Silk Route to Singapore as a gift from the Sultan of Oman. Later in the day we learned about Oman’s geogrpahic and botanic diversity with Jenny Walker and Sam Owen (Jenny is author of several Guides to Oman and Sam is a Commander in the RAF Oman). Jenny’s illustrated lecture made us realize that two weeks in the Sultanate is not nearly enough. The beauty and diversity of the landscape make advances in Oman’s tourism program development easily understood.

A visit to the Ministry of Education for a presentation on Education in Oman from 1970 to 2009, further illustrates the rapid page of change. In 1970 there were 909 students and 3 schools, in 2009 540,332 students and 1,047 primary and secondary schools. A recent agreement with Microsoft will assure email for over 600,000 students. While noting that 80 % of graduates go on the post-secondary education (private and public) when asked to identify the greatest remaining challenge to educational reform, the presenters replied, increasing the literacy rate. See Education Portal (click English) http://www.moe.gov.om/portal/sitebuilder/sites/eps/english/home.aspx

Our evening was spent with the Women’s Group of Sidab. The women’s sewing group was formed as a non-profit organization to give with women of Sidab, a “fishing village near Muscat a chance to learn and upgrade their sewing skills and supplement their household income from the products created.” The Group was initiated by Badriyah al Siyabi. She welcomed us, explained current and future projects planned to sustain the group, guided us through the facility (including the gift whop where we were able to purchase locally made items), and hosted a wonderful Omani dinner on the roof terrace. Among the many calico bag projects the women’s group made were the gift bags presented us earlier this week by Oman Brand Management Unit (see blog photo). See: http://www.wfsnews.org/freeread2.html

Muscat to Al Dikhiliya Region ~ June 26, 2009

We are learning about Oman at an incredible pace, five memorable days so far.

Water is a precious commodity in Oman. The Falaj irrigation systems that supply water to villages in the interior of Oman have existed for 2 to 3 thousand years and are based on intricate village social networks and relationships. At one time there were over 6,000 such systems but many have collapsed and today there are 3,600. Our Introduction to the Falaj began with a overview of the architecture, hydrology, and the astronomical approach to dividing water shares among the user community, by Hilal Al Siyabi (Ohio State undergraduate - Carnegie Mellon graduate degree). Many of the systems have been in use since the 17th century. We continued to on-site explorations through the Hajar Mountains to the Al Dikhiliya Region. Hilal took us to his village to show us the sun dial system for allocating water and measuring the time, traditional measures in place before clocks. Since the system operates for 24 hours with a 5 to 10 day access period cycle, night allocations are measured by stars. Payment is annual. None of the systems use pumps and each requires a sense of engineering in use since antiquity. We then hiked up the Falaj (approximately 2 km) to the source. As the photos show this was a fascinating excursion. Returning to the village we met in a veranda near Hilal’s father’s home to take coffee and a light meal of chick-peas, rice, fruit, and in-season local dates, and to enjoy the warm hospitality of family members.

We then continued our journey to Hilal’s father-in-law’s hydroponic cucumber farm to learn something about agriculture. Trained as an architect, he learned hydroponic farming by trial and error and reading books ordered on Amazon. The operation now produces 600 kilos per 90 day cycle in 45 greenhouses for the Omani market. The family invited us to lunch – grilled lamb, rice with nuts, spices, raisins, and honey cake – what an adventure. We needed the final walk along the Falaj, through the date palms to work-off the generous amounts of food consumed!

Finally, Friday is a special Muslim day of prayer and mosque attendance. For us it was fine evening to visit the Muttrah Souk, since it was crowded this day with family shoppers as well as the usual the scent of spices and frankincense and things to appeal to both locals and tourists. Almost all the women we saw were wearing the abaya with head scarves that do not cover their faces. All Omani men (not expatriates or foreign workers) wear white or light colored dishashas with either the Kumah, a round hat with embroidery (in the past made by sisters and daughters for male family members, or the distinctive Omani turban the Misar (also called Amara). Our group bought everything from saffron, to jewelry, clothing, and even an extra suitcase to hold all the gifts and other acquired items. A swing through the local mall for coffee at Caribou and our day is done!