Summer '09 Fulbright-Hays: Jordan / Oman

The North: Upper Jordan Valley, Roman Decapolis cities, & Ar-Rabad Castle ~ July 25

2009-07-25T02:47:00.000-07:00

Our three weeks in Jordan end with a northern excursion to see two of the great Roman Decapolis cities, Gadara (modern Umm Qais) and Gerasa (Jarash), as well as one of the best examples of Islamic military architecture, Ar-Rabad Castle, built to counter the Crusader threat by one of Saladin’s generals in 1184. The north is a beautiful region. There are rugged mountains and 1,000s of olive trees. Since the area receives more rainfall than the south, citrus fruits and vegetables grow in the Yarmouk and Jordan River Valleys. From Umm Qais one can see Syria, Israel, the Golan Heights, and the Sea of Galilee (Lake Tiberius).

Gadera is interesting because of the less “restored” state of the ruins and the presence of an Ottoman era village built over part of the Roman city. On the other hand, although much restored, Gerasa, with its oval plaza, theatres and temples, is one of the largest provincial Roman towns (see photos). Although I have always wanted to visit Krak de Chevalier (Syria), Ar-Rabad in Ajloun, which held against the Crusaders, was destroyed by the Mongols prior to their defeat at Ayn Jalut, then was rebuilt by the Mamluks, finally becoming an Ottoman garrison, is remarkably well preserved and represents the most sophisticated examples of medieval military engineering. A very full day! - we tramped all over each of these sites, were entertained by a talented group of young boys performing local Arabic style dancing (we were invited to join in, fun!), and stopped to watch the sunset over Nahr az-Zarqa on the drive back to Amman.

Our journey has been incredible. Special thanks go to our AMIDEAST sponsors. Here and in Oman they guided our learning and provided a rich and varied schedule of events. Our Group Leader Cal Allen (see photo with AMIDEAST program director, Subi Abu Abbas at Gerasa) has been generous with his time and knowledge, answered our questions with patience and humor, and kept us focused.

I am signing off now. Tonight, July 26th, following our farewell banquet, we leave for Frankfurt travelling on to our respective cities. Enriched by our 5 week experience in Oman and Jordan we look forward to sharing photos and curriculum projects with colleagues and communities and infusing new perspectives and knowledge in the courses we teach.

Jordan, host nation to refugees & displaced people, July 23

2009-07-25T02:36:00.000-07:00

Our final academic day in Amman ends on a somber note, refugees and displaced peoples. We were met at the Palestinian Baqa’a Refugee by one of the deputy director’s of UNRWA, Nattar Sager. His personal story illustrates one perspective. His parents were among the quarter million Palestinians made homeless by the creation of Israel. Born in a camp near Amman in 1951, Sager was told “get an education, you will deliver us.” He learned English (his father worked for the British Army prior to WW II and spoke English) went to college, and as many of his generation benefited from the 1970s oil boom by providing expertise to Saudi Arabia and the Gulf States and sending remittances home. After serving as an officer in the Oman Royal Air Force he returned to Jordan to work with UNRWA and raise his children. We met in the Camp elementary school when one of the teachers told of the dedication of teachers who work for low wages and few supporting amenities, such as computers. She works with local women’s organizations to arrange for a play room where children might have toys since they have none at home. There are over 93,000 living in Baqa’a, which is not a city of tents, but a small town with schools, a heath clinic, and women’s Center (photos). The numerous camps in Jordan have existed for 60 years. Refugee status legitimizes the Palestinian determination to reclaim their land and country. UNRWA does not administer the camps, it provides services. Please visit the web site, http://www.un.org/unrwa/refugees/jordan/baqaa.html

In the afternoon, UNHCR (Refugee Agency) speakers discuss the Iraqi refugee situation in Jordan. The burden of these displaced people in addition to the hundred’s of thousands of Palestinians places additional stress on the Jordanian economy and social services. UNHRC had prepared and pre-positioned support for an anticipated refugee crisis when the war began, but it did not come as anticipated. The initial cohort of refugees had funds, built homes, and settled in urban centers causing property and food prices to soar. However, by 2007 savings diminished and funds ran out. The urban refugee crisis in Jordan - one conceptually quite different than previous since populations are scattered - “hit,” requiring a UN response. UN policy agreed to deal with individual cases, help with “durable” resettlement, and open rights for refugees, who now receive direct assistance. To ease the Iraqi fear of deportation the King announced that Jordan welcomes them. Over 10,000 a year elect resettlement. 91% of Iraqis say they do not want to return at this time. In 2007 the United States agreed to take refugees. Initially the question came up because of a sense of obligation to interpreters, but our speakers noted that “durable” settlement in the US has not been effective with many feeling isolated and electing to return. Normalization, the speaker stresses, is considered the only viable long term solution, and is a key concept for 2010-11. See:
http://www.unhcr.org/pages/4a02db416.html

Jordanian life in Amman – Impressions

2009-07-25T02:14:00.000-07:00

After three weeks in Jordan my impressions are many. People are hospitable, helpful, and children are quick to try their English with a bright “welcome to Jordan.” Lifestyles and incomes are diverse. Present are the ubiquitous Starbucks, Pizza Hut, KFC, and McDonalds. One sees young women, dressed in Abaya and head-scarves, walking along the fashionable streets and sitting in cafes smoking the Argeileh (water pipe).

The Jordanian elite and members of middle class living in villas in Abdoun or urban apartments represent a very small minority of the population. Our group met with Ragda Bostros community organizers and children in the Jabal Al Qalaa to learn about their program. The low-income pre-WW II neighborhood is on a slope down from the Citadel. It is endangered by rising real estate prices and the expansion of tourism. There is talk of building a cable car to the Citadel with companion high end shops which will mean neighborhood clearance. The group was captivated by the children and the effort to save the community (see photos).

On a festive note, July is wedding month. Hotels in Amman all fully booked for lavish receptions. Our hotel has a nightly wedding gala. There is always stylish car (Lexus, Mercedes or BMW convertible) festooned with flowers for the bride and groom who dress in western attire. Security is very much in evidence. A band greets the couple, as friends and relatives in a variety of evening attire (western, traditional Arab or Bedouin dress) clap and dance, then proceed into the reception area for a major feast. Weddings cost around 10,000 JD ($15,000) and often more. The groom’s family pays most of the expenses and wedding contracts are elaborately crafted by the tribal families involved. Bedouin weddings are seven night affairs.

Shopping - there are several Mega-Malls in Amman and another under construction in the seventh circle area near AMIDEAST (see photo of site). Malls are filled with young people and have traditional anchor stores such as Carrefour, but they also have electronic security gates at entrances. I took a few photos before a security guard appeared and told me “no photos allowed.” Here you see an SUV demo.

I attended a concert at the Performing Arts Center (photo) with a colleague. Please note the name Iyad Sughayer, a 16 year old Jordanian pianist you will hear more of in the future. He, together with a very talented 17 year old violinist, gave a recital demonstrating rare skill, poise, and stage presence for such youth. Several other members of the group enjoyed watching films in the garden of Jordan’s new Royal Film Commission (photo). The Commission works to promote film (there are few movie theaters in the country outside of Amman) and attract film productions to Jordan (Transformers 2 was recently on location in Petra).

We also visit the royal car museum which houses the collection of the Hashemite Royal Family. The new museum is very popular with locals and tourists. Of special interest are not only the vast array of motorcycles – Harley-Davidson & BMW – and cars (both for State Occasions and the sports cars of which King Hussein was so fond), but the companion signage and photos explaining their context (photo). There is also a 15 min. film of King Abdullah taking a journalist around Jordan (Petra, hiking with Special Forces), talking about his life as King and the country he rules.

Preservation of the traditional Islamic arts and crafts presents a challenge. Our visit to Salt and the College of Traditional Islamic Arts and Architecture founded in 199 demonstrates the dedication and skill of those determined to do so. Among the colleges most significant initiative is the reconstruction of the Minbar, the pulpit of the Al-Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem (photos).

Wadi Rum & Aqaba~ July 18 & 19

2009-07-20T20:51:00.000-07:00

What can complete with Petra’s man-made and natural landscape? Probably very little, although the natural beauty of Wadi Rum Protected Area’s towering sandstone mountains, dunes, and canyons, is rare and unique in a different way. T. E. Lawrence maintained a camp here and termed the Rum, “vast echoing and Godlike.” Four-wheel drive trucks transport us to our campsite then take us on a wild ride up the Wadi (including a flat tire, changed in less than 5 min!) to view walls decorated with ancient drawings, canyons, camel rides, and Lawrence’s 1917 camp with stone portraits. Afterwards, our dinner is cooked in coals underground in an elaborate series of racked iron pots and we eat under the stars. As there is no ground light you feel you might touch them. Watching the light change the landscape at sunset and sunrise is incredible.

Our final stop is Aqaba, a special economic free zone. After a formal presentation on the ambitious ASEZA Project, tasked to modernize and relocate the port facilities, supervise a tourist complex that will complete with Sharm-el-Sheikh, Egypt, and Eilat, Israel, and enhance the Jordanian economy, we visit the Marine Science Station, tour the aquarium, then have two hours at the Diving Center to enjoy the pool or snorkel. For me, snorkeling in the clear Gulf of Aqaba water among colorful coral reefs and watching a dazzling array of fish, eels, and other swirling marine life, is another highlight of our southern excursion (see aquarium photo).

Petra ~ July 17 & 18

2009-07-20T20:39:00.000-07:00

Al-Batra, the Red Rose city carved out of living rock, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the Seven Wonders of the Modern World. Petra is truly one of the world’s great archaeological treasures. Built on the edge of Wadi Araba by the Nabateans – Arabs who controlled the strategic trade routes linking the Mediterranean with the Indian Ocean – more than 2200 years ago, the city continued to flourish through the Roman and Byzantine Era but passed into obscurity (except for local Bedouin living there) by the 12 th century and was not “rediscovered” by the West until 1812. Students are quick to associate Petra with Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade, a pop culture icon. We arrive mid-morning and along with 100s of others enter through the impressive 1200 m Siq gorge to experience the anticipated chills on first sighting the “Treasury.” Over the course of the afternoon I explore the Royal Tombs, stroll past the Theater, walk along the Colonnaded Street to the Roman Forum recently excavated by Brown University, visit the ACOR project Byzantine Church site, and climb 900 steps to Ad-Dier - the Monastery, and its spectacular views of the Wadi. By the time several of us drift back to the Treasury in the evening we have the place to ourselves and can truly experience the stunning beauty of the now shadowy and mysterious Siq and its carved votive niches and water channels. When the site reopens the next morning a few of us are there to climb to the High Place of Sacrifice returning by the more magisterial western route processional stairways sliced into the rock-faces to provide access to the ritual center to the Colonnaded Street below. As the photos illustrate, my Petra experience exceeded all expectations.

Crusader Castles & DANA Nature Reserve

2009-07-20T20:26:00.000-07:00

We are heading south on the modern desert highway paralleling the Hejaz RR built by the Ottoman’s in 1910 to take pilgrims to Mecca, and targeted by T. E. Lawrence’s raids during WW I. First stop, Karak Castle. Built in 1142 by the Crusaders and taken by Saladin in, 1188, the Castle is strategically situated on the ancient north south trade route to the Levant. Although damaged by a series of earthquakes, quarried for local buildings, and partly demolished by settlement advance, the current castle occupies much of the ridge and has a new museum. Contemporary Karak continues to have a high population of Christina Arabs. Shobak Castle, further south, occupies an equally strategic location, but was built earlier than Karak, and remains only partially restored (a romantic ruin).

DANA Nature Reserve (308 sq. kms) is Jordan’s premier eco-tourism project. We are fortunate to have Dr. Zuhair, a professor of Zoology and early Reserve advocate, planner and consultant, on our southern excursion. Zuhair proves to be an amazing resource for our group, patiently answering questions and telling great stories. We arrive in the evening to stay in the old village overlooking Wadi Dana in the shadow of towering sandstone cliffs and spectacular vistas of the desert beyond the Reserve - many members of our group sleep in roof top “tents.” Modern Dana Wadi villagers have relocated to a new housing complex as the old village is the home of the DANA Reserve complex and village houses are converted to hotels and backpacker hostels. Trekking is popular in the Reserve, home to rare species and animals, plants, trees (the 2000 year old Phoenician Cedars), and birds - although I saw few as migrations are seasonal. The villagers keep orchards of black walnuts, grapes, plums, pomegranates, apricots, and raspberries and sell jams in the Reserve gift shop. An early riser, I drink sweet mint tea seated on the rooftop and watch the sun rise as a covey of Mt. Quail move across a bolder covered slope – tranquility and peace after the hectic pace of Amman.

Leaving Amman for 4 days – Headed South! ~ 16 July

2009-07-15T12:05:00.000-07:00

Today we head for Southern Jordan stopping first at the Crusader Castle of Karak and Dana Nature Preserve where we spend the night. On Friday we leave early for Petra visiting Shobak Castle in route. We will have the afternoon in Petra, spend the evening then return in the morning before departing at noon for Wadi Rum (“the largest and most magnificent of Jordan’s desert landscapes,” & where Lawrence of Arabia was filmed). Here we will stay at a Bedouin camp. The next day we go to Aqaba on the Red Sea where we will visit sites and have a bit of time to snorkel before returning to Amman on Sunday. A blog update of these events will come after my return.

Yesterday, during our visit at the University of Jordan, we met with the Vice Chancellor and six Academic Deans. The University, founded in 1962, currently has 38,000 students (65% are women, who also represent 80% of the applications received this year) and 1300 faculty members. After our meeting and Q & A with the Deans, we toured the Library, learned about their extensive access to e-books, online databases and automated check-out system, then visited the Heritage Museum and TASOL (Arabic as a second language) Institute. After lunch at Wild Jordan (a USAID funded NGO), we visited Columbia University’s new Global Center for Mideast Scholars and the Queen Rania Teaching Academy. At the Academy we learned about their strategic plan to reform teacher education, classroom instruction, and methodology. Currently much of elementary and secondary education is by rote, classes are large - 60 or more students, segregated by sex - and teachers, although they have university degrees, have no training in teaching their subjects.

Stay tuned for next week's report from southern Jordan and more adventures.

Holy Sites in Jordan ~ July 11

2009-07-14T20:24:00.000-07:00

Today we visited some of the religious sites in Jordan via the historic 5,000-year-old King’s Highway, the Jordan River Baptism Site (John baptizing Jesus), Mt. Nebo where a series of churches were constructed to mark the place where it is thought God showed Moses “the promised land” and where he is buried, the city of Madaba with its extraordinary 6th century Byzantine Mosaics and Greek Orthodox Church of St. George were an ancient mosaic map of the holy land is preserved, and lastly, the Dead Sea (see photos). Pilgrimages to these sites have a long and often contested history since control and access has changed over time.

The Jordan River Baptism Site is an interesting case. Prior to the 6 Day War (1967) Jordan shaped much of its new national identity around promoting access to the holiest sites in Judaism, Christianity, and Islam – Jerusalem, the Jordan Valley, and other religious sites. Hundreds of thousands of tourists and pilgrims visited these sites. After the war the baptism site became a closed and mined military zone. The Israelis opened an alternative pilgrimage site at Yardenit on the shores of the Sea of Galilee, and welcomed global pilgrims for years.

After the 1994 peace, the Jordon River area was cleared of mines and archaeologists were able to begin work only to discover that the site where early Christian antiquity churches were erected to mark the holy location was actually on the East Bank of the Jordan River under Jordanian control. The extensive area, about a mile walk from the military check-point, is now filled with new churches and the Jordanian government is working to build the site into a global pilgrimage destination. Pope Benedict during his April 2009 visit to Jordan celebrated mass at the recently completed Catholic Church, thus conferring his imprimatur to site legitimacy. At least five more churches with pilgrimage residences are under construction in the 300 acre area, including Coptic, Armenian, Syrian and Ethiopian churches. The Jordanian site is modest, a wooden platform and baptismal font with clean water, and river access. However, the Jordanian River is reported to be much polluted (note the opaque color in photo) with sewage runoff from the Israeli city of Tiberius.

The Israel Nature and Parks Authority and the Civil Administration responded by building a more elaborate limestone and marble (see photos) structure directly opposite at Qasr al-Yahud on the West Bank. The site opened this spring. When we visited we saw no one there.

The ancient Byzantine church at Mt. Nebo is closed for restoration but a large section of the fine mosaics are displayed and site history is recounted in the museum. The site is under the care of Franciscans who maintain an active church and monastery. The site has been officially named Mt. Nebo/Siyagha. From the platform by the church we are able to see the Dead Sea, Jericho, and, had it been clear, Jerusalem. Pope John Paul dedicated a monument (photo) here to interfaith during the 2000 Jubilee year.

Religion in Jordan

2009-07-09T23:59:00.000-07:00

For the next several days our activities are intended to inform us about religious life in Jordan and on Saturday (July 11) we will visit some of the key holy sites. Officially Jordan is a secular nation: Islam the dominant religion. Ninety-two percent of Jordanians are Sunni Muslim. The recorded call to prayer – by the Muezzin - sounds five times a day from mosque minarets around the city, shaping the rhythm of daily life. Friday noon prayers are the most important and all males are expected to attend. There are approximately 150,000 Christians in Jordan (less than 3 % of the population) divided between Orthodox, Catholic, and Protestant, and their number continues to decline.

We met with Fr. Nabil D. Haddad, a Uniate Catholic priest, who reminded us that “Jordan is the birthplace of Christianity,” and noted “I am very proud to be an Arab Christian.” After 911 “Arabs and Muslims were victims of a small minority, I felt insulted. I am a Muslim by civilization, my culture is Arab Christian.” Deeply concerned by the increasing tensions and misunderstandings between the Islamic and Christian world, Fr. Haddad founded and serves as Executive Director of the Jordanian Interfaith Coexistence Research Center (JICRC) an NGO. JICRC is dedicated to promoting “coexistence on national and international levels through the establishment of intercultural understanding and communication” (see http://www.coexistencejordan.org/Default.htm and photo). The Amman Message to the Muslim world delivered to the UN in 2004 is worth a read. - http://www.coexistencejordan.org/amman_msg.shtm I am impressed with JICRC and its mission.

We then visited the modern King Abdullah Mosque. Its distinctive blue mosaic dome can be viewed from many points in the city. The mosque is named for King Hussein’s Grandfather, who was assassinated outside the Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem in 1951. King Hussein, 15 at the time, was with him. There is a museum and photographic exhibit dedicated to King Abdullah and the Royal Family. Communal prayer is a Muslim religious obligation. Men and women have separate prayer rooms. The men’s, being much larger, holds 3,000.The women in our group all wore long sleeves and head covering, but were asked to don a black nylon abayua to cover our clothes (photo). All entering the mosque remove their shoes.

On Saturday we go to the Dead Sea, Jordan River and Mt. Nebo – if the weather is clear we will be able to see Jerusalem.

Amman, Jordan ~ July 7

2009-07-07T12:45:00.000-07:00

Today, Tuesday, we visited Parliament for a presentation by Sufian Elhassan, Director, Research and Information. Jordan’s legislative procedures - a bicameral National Assembly, appointed Senate and an 110 member Chamber of Deputies elected by universal suffrage to a 4-year term - are embedded in the 1952 Constitution which follows the Belgium model. Elhassan gave us an historical overview in order place the development of the Kingdom’s parliamentary process in context.

Jordan’s creation as a “buffer state” between Israel and Iraq, its west bank Jordan River lands, and the conflicts marking that geopolitical reality, disrupted the 4 year election cycle. After the 1967 war, how were Palestinian Jordanians living under occupation to vote? The increasing strength of the PLO further threatened the state, and in 1974 the Arab Conference meeting in Morocco demanded that Jordan surrender authority of Palestine to the PLO as the “only legitimate Palestinian representative.” Only after Jordan’s final severance with the West Bank in 1988, Elhassan explains, did elections to restore Parliament occur. The most recent 2007 election, Elhassan notes, elected the first women outside the 6 member quota reserved for women. Elhassan took questions and concluded with a brief discussion of current United States – Jordanian relations (King Abdullah & Queen Rania’s April visit to the United States, President Obama’s Cairo address, the US Congress increased appropriations for Jordan, the occasion of the Ambassador’s 4th of July reception), remarking that Jordan has a “love affair” with the United States and wishes that love to be returned.

Wednesday we will have time to work on our curriculum projects, returning to the classroom and a tour of the King Abdullah Mosque on Thursday. Stay “tuned.”

Salalah ~ Muscat ~ Amman, Jordan, July 4-6th

2009-07-07T12:24:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the Hashemite Kingdom of Jordan. We arrive on a cool clear evening, Saturday the 4th of July. After the heat of Muscat and the humidity of Salalah the temps in Amman are a welcome relief, highs in the low 80s, lows in 60s. The landscape is as changed as the temperature. Jordan is a mostly arid land, short on water, and 1/3 the size of Oman. The Kingdom (a Constitutional Monarchy) has approximately 7 million people, 2 million living in Amman a busy urban area with lots of traffic. In contrast to Oman there is also more security in evidence.

Sunday morning we resume our Arabic lessons at the AMIDEAST Amman Office. Our Jordanian instructor (photo) expands our Omani conversation lessons by writing in Arabic (left to right), western script, then giving us the English words orally. With little time to study I am struggling, but I am a willing participants and hope to at least be able to talk to taxi drivers and engage in polite greetings. A welcome orientation with Barbara Al Nouri, Country Director, brings us up-to-date on our Jordanian program. After lunch we load into two Hyundai black vans for a city tour.

Modern Amman is built on a site first inhabited around 3500 BCE. Here, in the 3rd century BCE, the Egyptian Ptolemies built a city and named it Philadelphus. The landscape, strategically dominated by twelve hills had a reliable water source, making the site selection understandable. During the 1st century CE Rome rebuilt the site as one of the ten Imperial Decapolis cities naming it Philadelphia. Our first stop in the city center is the restored Roman Theatre, one of the largest in Imperial Rome. Seating 6,000 spectators, it is used for summer entertainments and has two companion museums, one for folklore the other featuring popular traditions. Along the north wall entrance the remains of columns mark the Forum area.

The Citadel, a site occupied from the Bronze and Iron Age then successively rebuilt during Roman, Byzantine, and Umayyad periods, commands the highest point in Amman. The remaining columns of the 1st century CE Roman temple dominate the city skyline. After the obligatory group photo, we navigate our way around trenches and heavy equipment working to create better access to the large site in order to visit the National Archaeological Museum adjacent to the temple complex. Here some of the Qumran Dead Sea Scrolls (copper rolls and papyrus fragments) are displayed as well as statues, busts, pottery, glass, and jewelry waiting to eventually be transferred to the New National Museum under construction. Another Citadel project under Getty foundation support is the partially-restored reception hall of the Umayyad-era palace located in another section (photo).

Back into the vans we drive through Abdoun for a windshield tour past the American Embassy. When the Embassy first relocated in Abdoun there was nothing else in the area we are told. Today it is filled with palatial villas built by wealthy Iraqi and other foreigners after the first Gulf War. Heavily armed Jordanians secure the Embassy exterior walls and U.S. Marines guard the interior. Large signs read NO PHOTOS allowed. The ambassador’s resident is inside the compound. The walls and gates recall a chapter in Thomas Friedman’s book HOT, FLAT AND CROWDED, “Where Birds Don’t Fly,” recounting the new American Embassy in Istanbul and the need to be both secure against hostile intruders while maintaining the United States mission to the host country. In the post-911 world, American Embassy officials and their families as well as other Americans living and working in Amman must navigate between advancing American interests, enhancing relations with the Arab world, and the requirement to secure the environment that makes normal relations possible. As Director Al Al Nouri noted during our orientation, 9/11 changed everything creating categories of “what we did before and what we did after.” Life goes on, as illustrated by the over 500 guests attending the 4th of July celebration on Embassy grounds.

In the evening we have a formal multiple course dinner featuring Jordanian food on the roof garden of the Crown Plaza Hotel. Hotel entry is controlled – steel stanchions protect the parking lot and entrance. July is also the wedding month and many guests were entering the hotel for a wedding – as with airport security all personal belongings are passed through electronic sensors, men and women enter separate lines where they are “patted down.” Since the attack in 2005 these procedures are a part of life in Amman.

Monday following Arabic we drive to the American Center for Oriental Research (ACOR founded 1968). Director Barbara Porter (photo) greets us. ACOR hosts visiting scholars, facilitates research, and engages in archaeological work, among many other things. We learn that the Roman Citadel site was an ACOR project funded by the United States Agency for International Development (USAID). Their work follows the Venice Charter - restore only 10% of an excavated site. For example, the two lower drums on the columns of what is thought to be a Temple to Hercules (site photo & ACOR model), represent this commitment. Barbara tells us the site was mostly “robbed out” prior to the 746-747 CE earthquake.

Another recent ACOR/USAID project (1992) is the 450-600 CE Church site at Petra. Fine glass, pottery (Top photo - I am holding a restored bowl found on site), and priceless carbonized manuscripts are being meticulously restored in the ACOR lab (see photo – look like lumps of coal). The papyri have a range with actual date of 535 to 595 CE. We will see the church site while at Petra in two weeks.

We have also had classroom lectures followed by Q & A, on the Hashemites, the Structure of Jordanian Government, Jordan’s relations in the Middle East, Islam, and Women in Islam-Facts and Misconceptions.

Farewell Salalah ~ July 3

2009-07-03T07:45:00.000-07:00

We had a grand last day in Salalah. We took three 4 wheel drive Land Cruisers up the coast to see the blowholes then into the Jabal Mountains for a picnic hosted by Said bin Saad Al Shahry. More text about our day later – here are a few photos.

We leave tomorrow morning to return to Muscat and fly on to Amman, Jordan. How very difficult it will be to say goodbye after two weeks in this fascinating country.

Salalah ~ July 2

2009-07-03T07:30:00.000-07:00

Camels, camels, camels, we see lots of camels today. At first sighting we all want to stop, pile off the bus, and have a photo moment. By the end of the day however, there is only a murmur – oh, another camel. While the camels are fun to watch, for me the birds are incredible. After Muscat, where I had seen so few, the lagoon around the Khor Rori excavation is filled with flamingoes, cranes, herons, ducks, and other water birds I need to identify. I am glad to have high power binoculars as the excavation site commands a hill far above the lagoon. Like old Salafah, Khor Rori is strategically located on another one of the three natural harbors on the Omani coast and was a major thoroughfare inland. Juris and Lynne explain that the trading center transhipped goods from China and South Asia for passage on caravan routes into the interior and sent frankincense and prized Arabian horses, among other things, to India.

We then drive up Wadi Darbat to the great natural travertine Dam which has cascading waterfalls during the monsoon and wonderfully eroded cliffs during the dry season. Many Jabali people farm the area keeping cattle and camels. The camels, we are told, have changed with the habitat. Because of over-grazing they forage less, are now fed expensive grass, and seldom travel long distances. Since the Park has both water and someone to feed them there are camels in abundance.

Before returning from our excursion to the hotel we stop at one of the many roadside Coconut kiosks to enjoy some coconut juice. We are each provided with a split fresh coconut and straw, then the shell is split so we can have a bit of the white meat – refreshing.

In the late afternoon we join a car/van caravan of others leaving the city. In large fields beyond the urban area tents are set up on carefully marked lots where families keep house until August to escape the coastal heat and humidity. As we enter the mountains all along the verges of the highway and surrounding hillsides families and groups of young men set up chairs, tables, or just spread a blanket to picnic and enjoy the cool rising mist of the Khareef. Our destination is the tomb of the Prophet Job, sacred to Jewish, Christian, and Muslim people of “the book.” The tomb is adjacent to a mosque and garden filled with colorful bougainvillea, hibiscus and other flowering plants and trees where colorful weaver birds suspend their nests.

Muscat to Salalah, July 1st

2009-07-03T07:26:00.000-07:00

Welcome to Salalah, primary city in the Dhofar region of Southern Oman, known as the “land of Frankincense.” The south is distinctly different from other parts of Oman, primarily because of the monsoon which arrives in July and turns the coastal area and surrounding mountain landscape green (and, there are NO Starbucks in Salalah!). Although we arrive before the monsoon, evidence that it will appear soon may be seen in the churning sea that creates huge waves and a dangerous undertow. The Indian Ocean is “turning over” as cold water swells up from the African coast to produce the mists that sweep past Southern Oman (the only part of the Arabian Peninsular touched by the monsoon) and bring welcome rain to South Asia. The mist transforms the dry landscape into a rich green and creates an ideal climate for the Frankincense trees that thrive beyond the mountains oozing the resin that is harvested twice a year. Egypt once used enormous quantities of frankincense for embalming the pharaohs and 3,000 tons were transported to 1st century CE Rome for incense. Today the resin is sold to the perfume industry.

We check into our hotel (right on the beach) and, as always, hit the ground running to absorb as much as possible during our three-day stay. First stop, Al Balid Archaeological Park where Juris Zarins and Lynne Newton, archaeologists with a passion for their work, give us an incredible introduction to the area. After Juris speaks at length on the geography and history of the region, its relationship to the trade routes both maritime and inland up the Hydramant, we pile into carts for a Park tour. Zarins has worked the site for over a decade. Lynne and he currently serve as site administrators and direct the co-located Frankincense Museum.

Al Balid is ancient Salalah, a natural port in use from the Bronze and Iron Age to the 20th century. The 14th century Muslim traveler, Ibn Battuta, writes of visiting shrines here, and Zeng He, the Chinese Yongle Emperor’s Admiral, called at Zafar with the great “treasure fleet.” After exploring the excavations we tour the Museum with Juris and Lynne. They patiently answer our questions with Juris providing anecdotes sure to enliven a world history class. The maritime section includes beautiful crafted models of regional vessels made by Tom Vosner.

In the evening we visit the Haffa Souk which features frankincense and perfume oils. The air is heavy with incense burners and each shop keeper assures us he has the best price. There are several types of frankincense, each for a different purpose, among them medicinal or simply because of the soothing fragrance when burned. We have fun bargaining before making choices.

Muscat ~ June 29 & 30

2009-07-03T07:16:00.000-07:00

The beach continues to lure a few of us. Tiny sand crabs scurry into their holes leaving interesting patterns and there is often a football game in progress.

Our final two days in Muscat are dedicated to learning about the Omani legal system and the development of the Consultative Council the Majlis Al Shoura. We visited the Supreme Court, and met with the Chief Justice - President, Isaq Al Busidi for an explanation of the Omani court system, a Q & A, and group photo. Al Busidi presented each of us with an emblem of the Sultanate and books on the Court System. Lunch and a lecture at the SASLO Legal Training Center, “The Developing Legal System of Oman,” by Said bin Saad Al Shahry, further informed us. The system is different from the other countries in the region. When established in 1970 there were no lawyers or judges in the region and the initial need was met by bringing qualified judges and sending Omanis to study law abroad, mainly the UK. Al Shahry stressed the need for public participation in the process, the necessity for a gradual transformation in order to prepare Omanis society to accept change based equally on tradition and modernity, “…to create a modern country which has a balance between its religion and culture and modernity.” His remarks reflect his commitment to the concept of partnership between people and government and his experience as a former member of the Majlis Al Shoura model a vision for Oman. The recently founded Center trains lawyers and legal assistants and reflects the development of the Omanization process.

Two hours of Arabic and a presentation, “The Forts & Castles of Oman” by Marcia Dorr followed by two hours of Arabic maintained our hectic pace. The fort preservation and restoration program, designed to preserve the historical legacy of the nation, is extensive. It is also intended to attract tourists. Marcia, who works with the heritage section of the Ministry of Culture and Heritage, authored a marvelously illustrated two volume work, The Craft Heritage of Oman. During the Q & A, she helped familiarize us with Oman’s rich material culture. We asked Marcia’s Omani assistant, when did women adopt the black abayua instead of wearing the traditional colorful regional women’s dress? She explained the style spread from Iran to the Gulf States and Oman after 1986, and noted the abayua is more comfortable for office wear. Wearing the abayua she considers as much a fashion statement as one of religion identity. A “free” evening allowed us time to return Muttrah Souk and enjoy the sounds of shop-owners. hawking their wares, smell the scents of Frankincense burners, and experience the fun of bargaining for the best price.

Tuesday was dedicated to learning about the Shoura (Consultative) Process in the Sultanate. We arrived at the Majlis chamber at 10 for an overview provided by Ahmad Ali M. Al Mukhaini, who served on the Majlis staff and has, from the time of our arrival, been a major group resource. Next we met with H.E. the Secretary General with his translator in a formal session followed by Q & A (our group asks very good questions). His Excellency presented each of us with an emblem of the Sultanate and books on the Majlis System. A reception with members of the Majlis staff and Public Affairs Officer followed. Since the primary language in higher education in Oman is English, the language also taught in secondary schools, many Omani’s - especially those educated in the UK and US - speak excellent English. I learn more from this series of interesting conversations and was better prepared to appreciate today’s lunch which included current and former Majilis members as AMIDEAST/Fulbright guests. I joined colleagues at the table with Dr. Fuaad Sajwani Al Lawati, Chairman Economic Committee of the Shoura Council. We conversed on a wide range of topics, including what it was like for an Omani to travel in the US soon after 911 (difficult), his vision for higher education in the Sultanate, along with tourism, and our family life. We shared tips for places to visit when he travels with his family to the US for a vacation next year.

That evening our Group Leader, Dr. Calvin Allen delivered a well received lecture “Three Centuries of Indian Contributions to Omani Economic & Social Development,” at the special invitation of the Indian ambassador. The presentation was followed by a delicious Indian meal served on the Indian Embassy lawn.

Tomorrow we are off to Salalah.

Muscat to Sohar ~ June 28

2009-07-03T07:10:00.000-07:00

Our 6 AM beach excursion group is up to three who enjoy people watching and shelling. Local morning tidal patterns are changing, there are 20 – 30 yards of exposed beach instead of the approximately 100 yards of walked in the last few days.

Today we need the fresh air before we travel two and a half hours up the coast to Sohar, to visit the new port and the university, and return to Muscat in time for a reception at the residence of the American Embassy Deputy Chief of Mission. The University of Sohar is a private institution established in 1979 in connection with Queensland University, Brisbane, Australia. They were pleased to explain their ambitious expansion program (40 % of new construction cost to be from the government), showed us around the campus, and hosted a pizza and KFC lunch where we could talk with students (exams ended recently) and faculty. Sofar is interested in student exchanges with American colleges and universities.

The pace of change in Oman is clearly embedded in the Sultanate’s commitment to education, much of it funded by rapid and diverse industrial development. The Port of Sohar is an indication of this expansion process. Opened less that five years ago near the strategic site of the ancient trading city, Port Sohar is an industrial park with a refinery, petro-chemical, bitumen, aluminum, and desalination plants, each having dedicated power sources. Currently with an 18 to 20 draw the port will soon have a 23 draw capacity, rail connections to Muscat, a “free zone”, and open a new area to increase the size to 4,500 hectares.

Photographs are not allowed within the port area - here is a refinery photo taken from the perimeter road.

Muscat ~ June 27

2009-07-03T07:03:00.000-07:00

Our morning Arabic class resumes at 8 AM – we have another 4 hours to complete before we leave Oman. The rhythms and sounds of the language are musical and distinct. Hopefully, I will improve before classes continue in Jordan next week.

Today’s activities are another example of the seminar’s promise to “provide participants with the broadest possible exposure to contemporary society.” We had a fascinating presentation on Oman’s Maritime History by Marine Archeologist, Dr. Tom Vosner. The region of Oman – an important source of copper in the Bronze Age - was vital to the development of the early hand sewn plank and beam boat construction that made the Indian Ocean trade routes stretching some 6000 miles to South and East Asia possible. His current project, to be a National Geographic feature, is construction of the Jewel of Muscat (see: http://www.jewelofmuscat.tv/en/node/420 ) a replica of the 9th century silk route trading vessel wrecked off the coast of Java and recovered in 1998. When complete, the ship will follow the ancient Maritime Silk Route to Singapore as a gift from the Sultan of Oman. Later in the day we learned about Oman’s geogrpahic and botanic diversity with Jenny Walker and Sam Owen (Jenny is author of several Guides to Oman and Sam is a Commander in the RAF Oman). Jenny’s illustrated lecture made us realize that two weeks in the Sultanate is not nearly enough. The beauty and diversity of the landscape make advances in Oman’s tourism program development easily understood.

A visit to the Ministry of Education for a presentation on Education in Oman from 1970 to 2009, further illustrates the rapid page of change. In 1970 there were 909 students and 3 schools, in 2009 540,332 students and 1,047 primary and secondary schools. A recent agreement with Microsoft will assure email for over 600,000 students. While noting that 80 % of graduates go on the post-secondary education (private and public) when asked to identify the greatest remaining challenge to educational reform, the presenters replied, increasing the literacy rate. See Education Portal (click English) http://www.moe.gov.om/portal/sitebuilder/sites/eps/english/home.aspx

Our evening was spent with the Women’s Group of Sidab. The women’s sewing group was formed as a non-profit organization to give with women of Sidab, a “fishing village near Muscat a chance to learn and upgrade their sewing skills and supplement their household income from the products created.” The Group was initiated by Badriyah al Siyabi. She welcomed us, explained current and future projects planned to sustain the group, guided us through the facility (including the gift whop where we were able to purchase locally made items), and hosted a wonderful Omani dinner on the roof terrace. Among the many calico bag projects the women’s group made were the gift bags presented us earlier this week by Oman Brand Management Unit (see blog photo). See: http://www.wfsnews.org/freeread2.html

Muscat to Al Dikhiliya Region ~ June 26, 2009

2009-07-03T06:54:00.000-07:00

We are learning about Oman at an incredible pace, five memorable days so far.

Water is a precious commodity in Oman. The Falaj irrigation systems that supply water to villages in the interior of Oman have existed for 2 to 3 thousand years and are based on intricate village social networks and relationships. At one time there were over 6,000 such systems but many have collapsed and today there are 3,600. Our Introduction to the Falaj began with a overview of the architecture, hydrology, and the astronomical approach to dividing water shares among the user community, by Hilal Al Siyabi (Ohio State undergraduate - Carnegie Mellon graduate degree). Many of the systems have been in use since the 17th century. We continued to on-site explorations through the Hajar Mountains to the Al Dikhiliya Region. Hilal took us to his village to show us the sun dial system for allocating water and measuring the time, traditional measures in place before clocks. Since the system operates for 24 hours with a 5 to 10 day access period cycle, night allocations are measured by stars. Payment is annual. None of the systems use pumps and each requires a sense of engineering in use since antiquity. We then hiked up the Falaj (approximately 2 km) to the source. As the photos show this was a fascinating excursion. Returning to the village we met in a veranda near Hilal’s father’s home to take coffee and a light meal of chick-peas, rice, fruit, and in-season local dates, and to enjoy the warm hospitality of family members.

We then continued our journey to Hilal’s father-in-law’s hydroponic cucumber farm to learn something about agriculture. Trained as an architect, he learned hydroponic farming by trial and error and reading books ordered on Amazon. The operation now produces 600 kilos per 90 day cycle in 45 greenhouses for the Omani market. The family invited us to lunch – grilled lamb, rice with nuts, spices, raisins, and honey cake – what an adventure. We needed the final walk along the Falaj, through the date palms to work-off the generous amounts of food consumed!

Finally, Friday is a special Muslim day of prayer and mosque attendance. For us it was fine evening to visit the Muttrah Souk, since it was crowded this day with family shoppers as well as the usual the scent of spices and frankincense and things to appeal to both locals and tourists. Almost all the women we saw were wearing the abaya with head scarves that do not cover their faces. All Omani men (not expatriates or foreign workers) wear white or light colored dishashas with either the Kumah, a round hat with embroidery (in the past made by sisters and daughters for male family members, or the distinctive Omani turban the Misar (also called Amara). Our group bought everything from saffron, to jewelry, clothing, and even an extra suitcase to hold all the gifts and other acquired items. A swing through the local mall for coffee at Caribou and our day is done!

Muscat to Nizwa ~ June 25

2009-06-26T05:46:00.000-07:00

Our excursion into the interior takes us into a different landscape, mountains with wonderfully colored stratification, wadis, oasis villages irrigated by the Falaj system, and even through a brief RAIN shower! Nizwa, once the capital of Oman, is one of the country’s oldest cities and trading centers. The Nizwa Fort is among the most visited tourist sites in Oman, rightfully so, since its large central tower commands views over a green valley of date palms and the sprawling city. The present fort configuration dates from the 17th century although the site was occupied in the 4th century CE. On our way to the fort we stopped at Nizwa souq and though we missed the goat auction, we walked though the fruit, vegetable, date, and spice markets, and watched artisans crafting the silver jewelry for which Nizwa is famous. The recently "restored" fort includes a museum with accounts of the site.

Returning to Muscat via Al Hamra village, we visit Bait Al Safah a home and museum which preserves examples of life in the old village, share a traditional meal of rice, vegetables, grilled meats, watermelon, and coffee, and watch women dressed in Abayua make our bread and roast coffee over open fires.

Our group of travelers is proving to be congenial and quick to absorb new experiences. The Omani people we encounter are friendly and hospitable. Tomorrow is Friday. We again leave the city to explore the ancient Falaj irrigation system and visit the first mosque built in Oman.

Muscat ~ June 24

2009-06-26T05:34:00.000-07:00

Up early to enjoy another walk on the beach. The receding tide reveals many tiny colorful shells (no more Cowries). Our Arabic Lessons continue promptly at 8 AM. While I am definitely not a star pupil, I improve with each lesson. The rest of the morning was dedicated to learning about the oil industry in Oman with a visit to Petroleum Development Oman (PDO – http://www.pdo.co.om ), an overview lecture, oil museum visit, and lunch. Since I grew up in Beaumont, the Texas city where “oil became an industry,” I thoroughly enjoyed the presentations.

Oil and natural gas (LNG) are essential to the Sultanate, which is the only GCC state not an OPEC member. Many oil companies drilled exploratory wells in Oman in the 1950s but the first well producing commercial quality crude did not come in until 1962. Today the Royal Dutch Shell controls 34% interest in PDO, the Omani government 60% which also owns all the gas. The PDO concession represents more than 2/3 rds of the country having 2,600 km of pipeline. 800 km asphalt roads, and over 5,000 km of graded roads. Because much of Omani crude oil is heavy, PDO employs technology advances to enhance the methods for finding and developing new oil – “intelligent wells” - and gas fields. 80% of Omani oil exports go to South and East Asia. PDO, we are told, is committed as well to training and education and the Omanization process. While the managing director is British, two-thirds of the top management is Omani and there are 4,187 Omani and 1,000 expatriates employed. PDO seeks to provide sustainable incomes for Omani people and engages in “gifts to the nation,” among them a planetarium. What does this sustainable development and the oil industry mean for Omani people?

As our afternoon lecture on Tribes and Politics in Oman presented by Ahmed Al Mukhaini (law professor at the SASLO Legal Training Center), Oman today may be best viewed through the lens of Pre and Post oil era history, the adaptation to the modern state and an oil producing economy. Oil transformed Oman and contributed to what is frequently termed a “Renaissance” within the Sultanate. Since many men and women work in the capital area and return to their villages on the weekend, tribal and family identity remains embedded in Omani political and social culture. After oil, Omani tribes (100s of tribes, 15 main) and their relationship to the state was re-invented and new traditions developed. As the Royal family supplies legitimacy for the Sultan, after oil, the corporate state defined new connections with tribal leaders by granting positions, providing stipends, inviting participation in councils, and meetings with the Sultan during his annual tour. Tribal relationships are political and complex. Our brief introduction to the topic clearly invites more study.

Our evening, after a full day’s activities, is free. Tomorrow we have our first excursion into the interior to Nizwa Fort and time to roam the Nizwa Souk. Stay tuned!

Muscat ~ June 23

2009-06-26T05:05:00.000-07:00

Once again we are on the go from dawn to late evening. I have taken my first colloquial Arabic class, can now use and return the proper greeting, “Assalaamu Aalaikumm, Wa Aalaikumm assalaam,” know more about the 19th and 20 th century Muscat merchant community, and have participated in a series of focus groups with distinguished Omani men and women from the public and private sectors.

Our morning began with the Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque tour. The Mosque, designed for Muslims of all Islamic sects, incorporates the architectural styles of each region of the Muslim world, and is a remarkable representation of Islamic faith and the achievement of the modern Sultanate. Many years in the planning, it took 6 years to complete at significant cost, was dedicated in 2001, and can accommodate 20,000 worshippers. Each piece of limestone, marble, semiprecious stone and wood carving is numbered. Semi-precious stone inlays recall the Mughal Empire, arches in black and white echo the Grand Mosque in Cordoba and so on. The entire Quran is scripted around the Mosque walls using innovative new technologies to hydraulically carve the calligraphy. Rare woods from all over the world are used in doors, ceilings, decorative panels, and screens. The chandeliers are German crystal with Swarovski beads. The hand woven Persian carpet took 400 women 6 years to complete & was, at one time, the largest in the world. Our visit concluded with a panel of three religious Omani men discussing Modern and Classic Islam, followed by an engaging Q & A session – topics ranging from the media misrepresentations, the Taliban (disliked), male ego, and multiple wives.

We next toured the Bait Al Zubair Museum, originally the home of Sheikh Al Zubair bin Ali and one of the country’s architectural icons. Three generations of this prominent merchant family lived in the house until it was demolished in the 1940s to provide road access for cars to the Sultan’s Palace. The museum has three separate buildings, one the carefully restored original home, another a recreation of the living area of the Al Zubair home with furnishing as it was in the 1940s, and the third houses various collection of weapons, jewelry, historical photographs, a fabulous map room which includes the 1863 Johnson Map, the first American made map of the Arabian Peninsula.

The final even of the day, hosted by Oman Brand management Unit in collaboration with AMIDEAST, was a series of four roundtable discussions on Education, Economic Development, and Omani women. Fulbright scholars had the opportunity to participate in an important cultural exchange – our conversations as we moved from group to group were engaging, informative, and mutually rewarding. Participating in a focus group as part of the Brand Oman project, an ambitious effort to create a brand that “reflects the diversity that is Oman…,” was a rare opportunity. The program concluded with dinner with our hosts, more conversation.. and the presentation of gifts – bags appliquéd with traditional women’s dress for the women in our group and similar for the men with a commemorative coin depicting the tall ship, Sultanah, which visited New York in 1840 to establish trade and create American awareness of Oman and Zanzibar, which was controlled in that era by Oman.

Muscat, Oman ~ June 22

2009-06-26T04:44:00.000-07:00

Welcome to the Sultanate of Oman and the Muscat capital area. After a smooth flight from Zurich in a well appointed Swiss Air Bus, we touched down at 10:30 PM Sunday, cleared customs, and checked into our hotel by midnight to rest before starting our program Monday morning at 9:30. We are lucky, the temperature is a mild 98 degrees, after a high of 130 the week before. Our hotel is only a short walk to the beach, and as an early riser, I take a walk on the beach and do some shelling. Searching for the illusive cowry, I found one after taking only a few steps and hope to find a few more.

After 24 hours my impressions are captured in these images. Muscat and the towns that comprise the capital area are experiencing growth and construction - new government buildings a new Opera House, shopping malls (the ubiquitous Starbucks, Dunkin Donuts, KFC, McDonalds). There are expansive green areas and well irrigated lawns with flowers (zinnias) and flowering trees line the roads tended by hosts of foreign workers. The city sparkles in white stucco dress and the architecture includes the distinctive arch embedded with a postmodern flair. There are super “dual-carriageway” highways with fly-overs, and round-about (terms courtesy of the British influence). Although the most popular car appears to be by Toyota, Nissan, Hyundai, Mazda, there is an occasional Honda, Mercedes, and BMW. Some cars sport the distinctive learner stripes as more Omani obtain their license, women among them.

Our first stop is the American Embassy for a briefing by the Assistant Public Affairs Officer. The embassy (no photos allowed) is fortified and well guarded (I saw local guards, no US Marines, but perhaps there are some), as expected it took a while to register and get though security. Once inside the inner courts have lovely lawns and flowers. Clearly the PA office understands the importance of the Fulbright summer program. The acting Chief of Mission (the new Ambassador arrives shortly) stopped in to greet us and take questions – we are encouraged to interact with the Omani people and learn as much as possible, while observing local protocols and courtesies – cordial and informative visit.

After an additional orientation presentation at the recently opened AMIDEAST Oman office we had lunch at the Automatic: Al Qurum (Lebanese) and took at tour of the city in our comfortable van. We stopped for photos at His Majesty Sultan’s Palace, drove to Muttrah (Old Muscat) along the Corniche and Sultan Qaboos Port where the Sultan’s yacht is anchored along with other private boats, container ships, and colorful fishing vessels. There is a park enjoyed by families and a vendor selling cotton candy – everything is spotless – the city has a global reputation for cleanliness and must be one of the cleanest cities I have visited.

At the end of our tour we took tea at the Al Bustan Palace Hotel, 7 stars, recently renovated with a fantastic marble, crystal, and mosaic lobby – complete with an elegant violin, piano, cello trio of playing Mozart and Strauss, and an Omani gentleman in the traditional dress worn throughout the area enjoying tea, chatting with guests, and offering one of the sweet dates for which the area is famous. Here I also found the first item on my shopping list COMMON BIRDS OF OMAN so am all set to continue my bird list.

The day ended with a visit at the Al Baranda Museum, with exhibits on the history of the city from earliest times to the present (marvelous map room), followed by a formal Omani dinner (25 different dishes) – we dined seated on cushions at low tables.

Washington D.C. ~ June 17-20, Pre-departure Orientation (PDO)

2009-06-20T06:13:00.000-07:00

We are off to a fine start. The PDO, hosted at AMIDEAST, the program administrator, featured numerous speakers and a variety of presentations. Among these were Ambassador David L. Mack, Middle East Institute Scholar and former US Ambassador to the United Arab Emirates, and Ibtesam al-Atiyat, Professor at the German Jordanian University. Mack addressed contemporary Middle East issues. Dr. al-Atiyat spoke on regional women’s issues. Her session generated considerable discussion which we plan to continue with her in Amman.

Of special note to world history students and teachers was a presentation of the recently launched web site, The Indian Ocean in World History, http://www.indianoceanhistory.org/
sponsored by The Sultan Qaboos Cultural Center ( http://www.mei.edu/SQCC.aspx ) a program of the Middle East Institute in Washington, D.C.

I’ve also visited friends, seen some wonderful exhibits (including Maya Lin’s “Systematic Landscapes” at the Corcoran – lucky timing I heard her speak and slipped on “booties” to walk on one of the sculptural installations).

Tonight we leave for Muscat, Oman, via Zurich and Dubai arriving Sunday evening, 21 June. We are bracing for the heat – it is currently 104 (down from 130 earlier this week!).

Mideast summer

2009-06-10T08:04:00.000-07:00

During summer 2009 I am privileged to be one of fourteen participants joining the Jordan and Oman: Middle East Neighbors 2009 Fulbright-Hays Seminars Abroad Program. My blog is created to share my experience with colleagues, students, family, and friends.

See Alamo Colleges News: http://www.alamo.edu/main/html/news/2009/052109b.htm